Maui Surf

Second Big Swell of Summer Blows Up South Side

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By Carlos Rock

Secret Spot. Gotta hike in. Photo: Carlos Rock.

The last big south swell came in and blew up the south side of Maui.

This particular swell was more of a southwester, meaning that the west tilt made it miss some spots not facing west like Ma’alaea, while other spots thrived with the more favorable direction.

Namely, the spots down in Makena and La Perouse Bay. These spots, which you might already know of, but should not be named for the sake of keeping the crowd down, were going off.

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Waves in the 10 to 12-foot range were the norm as surfers were forced to bring out their step up boards or risk breaking their regular shortboard — or their bodies.

There were a few broken boards and leashes, accompanied by some heavy wipeouts. Many surfers were charging the huge waves coming in, knowing all too well that it may not last long.

There were some bombs. Photo: Carlos Rock.

Lahaina side was lit up once again with the SW swell hitting certain fickle spots just right, reminding surfers of the world class potential of so many spots just littered all along the Honoapi’ilani Highway (Hwy 30).

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The high surf advisory is still in effect until 6 p.m. Thursday as the swell will slowly drop in size and energy.

Not every swell can be a weekend deal that is obviously more convenient for working surfers, but when a really good swell comes in during the middle of the work week, surfers are forced to do the early dawn session or the late sunset session — or skip work.

Should have brought a bigger board… Photo: Carlos Rock.

One wave at a spot (that need not be named), had to be at least triple overhead of one surfer once at the bottom of it.

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There is nothing that can compare to seeing a huge wave rear up in front of you and you’re the only one out the back and in the right spot to catch it.

And you go, whether you make it or wipe out. But you go, you have to, why not. You never know your full potential until you try.

There appears to be some more life in the southern hemisphere near New Zealand and the Taz sea registering on the charts for possibly more epic swells. Summer’s been uncharacteristically good so far…

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