Maui Surf

Decent Size East Swell on Offer

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By Carlos Rock

Stormy surf condition, Ho’okipa. Photo: Carlos Rock.

A surprise east swell brings waves bigger than anticipated to save surfers from summer flatness, in between the larger south swells.

Strong tradewinds produced a fairly large 3 to 7+-foot east swell for the north shore of Maui. Some spots surprisingly turned on and had waves that resembled some winter time energy.

This usually happens when a storm comes in and brings with it some rainy weather.

But that’s not enough to deter surfers from getting some of the east swell. What is on offer now is a combination storm and wind swell. No complaints here.

Kids are fearless nowadays.Photo: Carlos Rock.

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The best spot to harness this swell is undoubtedly Ho’okipa beach.

This swell produced some great waves because one of the areas at Ho’okipa actually works better on an east swell than a typical north or northwest due to the angle that the reef is facing.

The east swell hits the reef at just the right angle to make great peeling waves. And, since there is only a small south swell on offer for the island, this east swell was met with a large crowd.

Ho’okipa is one of a few spots on the north shore to actually surf without running the risk of surfing by yourself at some hard to reach places.

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So there are people who are regulars and who you can say are permanent fixtures out in the lineups.

Pavils, Ho’okipa. Photo: Carlos Rock.

Ho’okipa is also a great place for the family to come down and spend the day together and surf as a family. This only translates to crowded lineups.

However, spending time out in the water and putting the hours in to really learn how the waves break and how it works depending on the swell size and the crowd, as well as a little bit of patience, will guarantee you a spot in the rotation.

This particular spot known locally as Pavils (named after the pavilions on the beach) is very localized, but also user friendly. It is one of the most diverse lineups on Maui. Kids to old grandpas, rippers and non-rippers, locals and tourists alike are scattered throughout the lineup. Add some turtles, some snorklers, and some SUPers, and it makes for an unforgettable experience every single time you surf out there.

Goodnight turtles. Photo: Carlos Rock.

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What makes this spot so special is the fact that there are almost always waves to ride.

From 1-foot to 10-f00t and every type of swell (except south) you can surf here everyday if you have the equipment and the patience.

Hopefully there are more east swells to come while there are no significant south swells popping up on the forecast.

If the strong winds continue, there should be some more east swells.

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