Rising Swell a Dangerous Temptation for Surfers

By Carlos Rock

Getting bigger by the hour. Ho’okipa. Photo: Carlos Rock.

A big west-northwest swell is currently hitting the islands causing authorities to issue a high surf warning for all of the north facing shores.

This swell is predicted to reach heights of 15-20+ feet by the afternoon so if you do decide to give the big surf a try, keep in mind that the swell is still rising. Surfing during a rising swell is the most dangerous time to be out in the water because you never really know how big it’s going to get until it is sometimes too late and you’re in WAY over your head.

So with that being said, the light winds are still producing great conditions so find a spot that is a bit protected from the full force of the 20-foot swell and enjoy the glassy conditions. Keep in mind that there are so many places to surf and a break from the old routine of surfing the same spot over and over again might just be what your surfing and psyche needs to get a little recharged.

The Kona winds have been lingering around for a while and Thursday has been one of the hottest of the entire winter, reaching temperatures of 88 degrees. The hot weather only makes the water look that much more inviting to delve into to cool off after a long work day.

Kona Sunsets are the best. Photo: Carlos Rock.

The hot weather resulting from the Konas can be a bit uncomfortable, but surfers welcome the Konas with open arms because they always make great surfing conditions for the north shore because they blow offshore.

But, enjoy it while it lasts because the forecast is showing a shift back to tradewinds by Saturday. The Konas also produce the most epic sunsets, and if you got to catch last night’s, well, it was something special.

The hot weather is looking like it is just a glimpse of what is to come in a few months, summer. Oh, summer and your flat days and hot weather making all the surfers long for winter to return.

However, don’t get too ahead of yourself by dreading the summer just yet, there are still a few more north swells on the way. Hopefully this winter season will go out with a bang.