VIDEO: The Warped Ethos of Albee Layer

April 4, 2017, 12:32 PM HST · Updated April 4, 12:32 PM
Nick Ricca · 0 Comments

“Surfing is your interpretation. It’s up to you to decide what it is.”

Ethos is defined as the disposition, character, or fundamental values particular to a specific person. From living between San Diego and Maui, to pushing the limits of progression, Albee’s ethos revolves around surfing. Surfing as a mode of expression. In this new edit by Take Shelter Productions, you’ll get a glimpse into Albee’s state of mind.

“None of us, even at a young age, were like, “I’m going to be a world champion. That was a very far thought,” says Layer in the above interview. “The reason why [my friends and I] got into surfing was because we watched surf videos. They were a representation of us, because they were completely made and filmed by us.”

That drive to express has cemented Layer as one of surfing’s most well-rounded individuals. He’s got an air game that’s second to none, and skills in big waves to match. Combine that with the expertise of filmmaker Dan Norkunas, and you get videos that consistently captivate the internet.

“When you think of surfing and its roots, it’s like an art form. Not to get all spiritual, but that’s what surfing means to me. The root of surfing isn’t competition for me. That’s not where it came from. It’s more of an expression type of thing. Myself and my group of friends will do everything we can to make it look as cool as possible. We want that opportunity for the next generation: to pursue whatever part of surfing they want, not to just be forced in this competitive box. Surfing is your interpretation. It’s up to you to decide what it is.”

With that said, go surf already!

Nick Ricca
Nick is a surf photographer, filmmaker, and writer from Maui. He is a contributor to Freesurf Magazine.


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