Maui Surf

5 Cures To Summer Surf Boredom on Maui

July 20, 2012, 3:02 PM HST
* Updated July 23, 12:00 PM
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By Carlos Rock

Small surf got you down? Here are some ways to keep the stoke level high and cure the small wave summer time blues on Maui.

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A longboarder shows impressive balance at Launiupoko. Photo by 2Chicos.

Longboard

Pro Surfer Rob Machado once said, “More foam, more fun.”

It is time to break out the long board. If you don’t have one, buy one. If you don’t have enough funds to buy such a worthy investment, find someone kind enough to let you borrow theirs (or just rent one, it’s only around $15 per day for kamaaina).

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Wipe the dust off that big board sitting in the shed and give it a clean coat of wax. You will be surprised how much fun it is to get back to the essence of surfing, riding a wave successfully and smoothly. The goal is to make everything easier. You paddle twice as fast, it is easier to balance on a bigger board, and you can surf and stay in shape when the waves are 1 foot.

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There is something about finding a smooth line on a longboard that just feels effortless and will leave you wondering why you do not surf one more often.

It will be a breath of fresh air for those surfers who are strictly “short-boarders,” and will help improve your short-boarding by understanding the type of line required to surf different waves. Expand your quiver  (collection of surfboards) and surf everyday.

Here’s a serene video of some elegant “lady sliding,” something that’s best done on a longboard.

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Yoga on Maui’s west side, as the sun sinks behind Lanai. Photo by Thierry Velasquez / Lululemon.

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Yoga

Doing yoga is beneficial to many aspects of life, not just surfing. Yoga helps to calm the restless mind that ordinarily finds a way to relieve the stress of a busy workweek by spending time in the waves. It also helps us stay loose and focused, with a concentration on breathing.

Performing stretches and holding positions that strengthen your core and keep your hips and shoulders flexible will translate to more fluid surfing and overall better performance in the water.

In addition to yoga, try eating healthier and you will notice a radical change in your surfing.

SUP

“SUPing” has blown up the past five or six years after being pioneered by surfers like Laird Hamilton and Maui’s own Dave Kalama.

It is a great way to stay in shape and strengthen the core muscles that are so essential to balance and stamina. If you don’t have one, chances are you know someone that does and will let you borrow.

If you have never tried it, try it – you might like it. Doing something new and riding different equipment are great ways to become a well-rounded surfer.

– Get out and paddle around where it is not too windy unless you plan on going downwind.

– Paddle around where there aren’t a lot of people so you won’t be a danger to anyone.

– Don’t stray too far from shore because wind and ocean conditions can quickly change, making it tremendously more difficult to paddle into the wind.

Find someone who will take you out and show you how it is done, i.e. correct stance, paddling technique, etc. Once you get it, try catching a couple of waves with one and see what happens.

Fish

Time to further expand your quiver by acquiring a fish.

A fish is an essential board to have when the conditions call for it. For example, a 1-3 foot wave with a decent wall is perfectly suited for a fish.

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Thomas Campbell’s Sprout has everything you want in a surf movie.

The added volume and overall shape makes it thrive in small waves. It will also translate to better short boarding when you switch back to a thruster.

Plus there are many fish designs out there that look good, but find one that you are confident you can ride based on your weight and riding ability.

Here, just watch Kelly (video).

Watch a Good Surf Movie

There is nothing better to keep the stoke high than watching a good surf movie with your favorite surfers. Watch closely, take mental notes, and most of all stay positive.

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