Pristine Surf Conditions After the Storm

By Carlos Rock

Getting deep in the barrel at Big Beach. Photo: Carlos Rock.

The day after Tropical Depression Flossie wreaked havoc for one night, Tuesday dawned pristine conditions and big surf at Big Beach.

All the coasts saw brown and dirty water leftover from all the runoff and apparent flood damage. There was debris scattered all over the beach, but the waves were absolutely perfect.

A solid 6-foot swell was unloading gaping barrels on the shore. It was a classic summer day at Big Beach.

The S/SE direction in the swell from Flossie made the swell focus more energy to the right side of the beach because the waves were significantly better there than the other side.

Gaping barrels. Photo: Carlos Rock.

Big beach has been alive and well this summer by dishing out countless beatings and amazing barrels.

With shore break you always have to be careful because of the proximity of the sand to where you are riding the wave.

Almost every surfer knows the feeling of getting planted on the sand from a wave. Even a 1-footer can send you into the sand with great speed.

Maybe it was a little bigger than 6 feet. Photo: Carlos Rock.

This is why the lifeguards were on high alert as set waves appeared to be getting bigger by the hour.

And they will be the first to tell you that it doesn’t feel like the soft white stuff up on the beach. This sand is as hard as cement.

This is what makes Big Beach so dangerous and magnificent at the same time.

With more south swells on the way, this summer has been very nice. There appears to be some 3-5 ft swells on tap
for the weekend so be safe and get some good ones.