New NNW Builds, Series of N Swells on Horizon
By Meteorologist Malika Dudley / Email: [email protected]
The High Surf Advisory has been extended by the National Weather Service for east-facing shores of Maui and Molokaʻi through 6 p.m. Friday. Surf is expected from 5 to 7 foot faces.
Expect strong breaking waves, shore break and strong longshore and rip currents making swimming difficult and dangerous.
**Click directly on the images below to make them larger. Charts include: Maui County projected winds, forecasted swell direction, height & period, tides, a surface map and expected wave heights.**
North: Mix of northeast and new north-northwest swells for northerly exposures. Surf heights overhead to a couple of feet overhead in the morning. Double overhead sets are possible at the best breaks exposed to the northeast swell in the afternoon.
West: In the afternoon, spots open to the swell are expected to get head high to overhead wave heights, maybe even bigger on the sets. Breaks that don’t catch the swell are forecasted to get smaller surf at ankle high or flat.
South: Many areas will remain flat today.
Our current northeast swell is expected to continue to gradually ease today.
A new north-northwest swell is expected to build Friday into Saturday, peaking near advisory levels. Surf expected from overhead to double overhead, maybe even bigger at the best exposures.
A series of overlapping swells are expected next week as well.
Super small trace amounts of swell expected out of the SPAC. Not much to get excited about.
Keep in mind, surf heights are measured on the face of the wave from trough to crest. Heights vary from beach to beach, and at the same beach, from break to break.