Large Advisory Level SSW Swell Peaks Today
By Meteorologist Malika Dudley / Email: [email protected]
A Marine Weather Alert is posted for all coastal waters. A long-period south swell will bring potential for moderate to heavy surges in harbors facing the south and may lead to waves breaking in and near harbor entrances (especially around low tide and during the morning hours). Extreme tide changes could lead to locally strong currents even in channel entrances. Boaters should be alert to larger than normal surf along south shores this weekend.
A High Surf Advisory is in effect through Monday at 6:00 p.m. for surf rising to 8 to 12 feet (with higher sets) along south facing shores. The swell is expected to peak Monday, then slowly fade Tuesday. Use caution when near the ocean during this time.
**Click directly on the images below to make them larger. Charts include: Maui County projected winds, forecasted swell direction, height & period, tides, a surface map and expected wave heights.**
North: Wave heights thigh high or less expected today. Some northwest spots could get knee to waist high waves from time to time.
West: Head high to slightly overhead waves expected today.
South: Head high to several feet overhead waves are expected today with the best exposures possibly bigger on the sets at the peak.
A long-period south-southwest swell continues to build at buoys and a high surf advisory remains in effect through Monday. This advisory is likely to be extended based on current model trends. Based on current trends however, there is a strong likelihood the advisory will need an extension in time. The swell is expected to peak on Monday, then gradually fade Tuesday and Wednesday.
Small and relatively short-period northwest swells are forecasted to continue throughout the week, with a slightly larger northwest expected next weekend.
Hurricane Andres in the far East Pacific has generated a long period east swell that is forecasted to arrive around Tuesday and persist into next weekend. Initial swells are expected to be small, but the swell is forecast to grow to the point that an advisory may be needed for east facing shores before next weekend.
Keep in mind, surf heights are measured on the face of the wave from trough to crest. Heights vary from beach to beach, and at the same beach, from break to break.