High Surf Advisory Extended Through the Day
By Meteorologist Malika Dudley / Email: [email protected]
The High Surf Advisory has been extended until Tuesday at 6:00 p.m. for surf from 8 to 12 feet (with higher sets) along south facing shores. The swell is expected to peak Monday, then slowly fade Tuesday to 6 to 19 foot faces. Use caution when near the ocean during this time.
A Marine Weather Alert is posted for all coastal waters. A long-period south swell will bring potential for moderate to heavy surges in harbors facing the south and may lead to waves breaking in and near harbor entrances (especially around low tide and during the morning hours). Extreme tide changes could lead to locally strong currents even in channel entrances. Boaters should be alert to larger than normal surf along south shores this weekend.
A Small Craft Advisory has been posted for the Pailolo and ʻAlenuihāhā channels as well as Māʻalaea Bay from 6:00 a.m. Tuesday through 6:00 a.m. Wednesday. East winds from 20 to 25 knots and rough seas of 6 to 10 feet are expected.
**Click directly on the images below to make them larger. Charts include: Maui County projected winds, forecasted swell direction, height & period, tides, a surface map and expected wave heights.**
North: Wave heights thigh high or less expected today. Some northwest spots could get knee to waist high waves from time to time.
West: Chest/head high waves expected today. Best breaks could see waves a few feet overhead on the sets. Downward trend in the afternoon.
South: Head high to overhead waves are expected today with the best exposures possibly bigger on the sets.
Our current south-southwest holds pretty steady on Tuesday and gradually starts to fade in the afternoon.
Small and relatively short-period northwest swells are forecasted to continue throughout the week, with a slightly larger northwest expected next weekend.
Hurricane Andres in the far East Pacific has generated a long period east swell that is forecasted to arrive Tuesday and persist into next weekend. Initial swells are expected to be small, but the swell is forecast to grow to the point that an advisory may be needed for east facing shores before next weekend.
Keep in mind, surf heights are measured on the face of the wave from trough to crest. Heights vary from beach to beach, and at the same beach, from break to break.