By Perri Kaminoff

Chef Tim Herney (left) and owner Paul Johnson. Photo by Perri Kaminoff.

The eye-catching Lillikoi Grill banner, raised two weeks ago in centrally-located Aloha ‘Aina Center in Haiku, has the town wondering.

By morning, it’s a cafe where fresh scones and organic coffee can be scooped up before work. Come lunchtime, the ovens of farm-fresh pizza fire up, and a colorful chalk board displays locally-grown and inspired gourmet pizzas such as the ‘Haiku Rasta’ and the ‘Maliko Gulch’ all atop a fine milled organic flour crust, to accommodate glucose intolerant customers.

By evening, a farm-to-table dining experience and wine bar can be found.

Lilikoi owner Paul Johnson took over ownership of Max World Bistro’s comfort-food-from-around-the-world-style restaurant about six months ago. Since then his focus has been on expanding the dining area, constructing the Hawaiian regional cuisine menu, and sourcing fresh, local, sustainably harvested ingredients.

One can expect a friendly visit to the table from chef Tim Herney with an offering of an amuse bouche (appetizers selected by the chef) to excite the taste buds before ordering. Complimentary treats vary depending on chef Tim’s fresh food choice of the day.

Menus are printed daily, mostly changing to reflect catches of the day by fishermen from Maliko Gulch. Chef Herney frequently prepares ahi dishes.

Pele's Grill: grilled Mahi with a shoyu based sauce and rice, alongside grilled mahi atop Molokai sweet potato puree with a lillikoi burre-blanc sauce. Photo by Perri Kaminoff.

The grilled mahi atop Molokai sweet potato puree with a lillikoi burre-blanc sauce showcases the chefs’ international cuisine study, from New York to France to the Hawaiian islands. The fish was fresh and cooked to a pleasant consistency, yet the lilikoi sauce was surprisingly bland. The special of the day, Pele’s Grill, grilled Mahi with a shoyu -based sauce and rice was mediocre.

The kale house salad vegetables were fresh and tasty, but  the vegan maple syrup lilikoi dressing was unexpectedly spicy, not sweet, with a strong red-chili taste.

The name Lillikoi Grill was inspired by the bounty of lilikoi vines draped throughout the Haiku area as well as Lilikoi Gulch and Lilikoi Road. Johnson wanted to find a name that incorporated Hawaiian culture and food. Lillikois have made their way to the menu with the lilikoi margarita, and in unique pairings such as the lilikoi-barbecue glazed baby back ribs.

“Local farmers show up at our back door with fresh ingredients every day,” says Johnson.

Leather booths and white linen tables remained mostly empty at dinnertime on a Thursday night. Minimal decor, featuring only a Heineken neon wall hanging, exaggerated the emptiness of the dining area.

Bruschetta appetizer with warm goat cheese. Photo by Perri Kaminoff.

The small bar area, which plays football on Monday afternoons and Thursday nights, carries top shelf drinks only. A large wine cellar supplies their extensive wine list, and the bartender offers semi-knowledgeable food pairings.

Johnson explains the menu as “a fusion of local food from a variety of cultures.”

Fusion is right – the menu has something for everyone. Traditional sports bar dishes, such as buffalo wings and fish and chips, are alongside dishes like the lilikoi original ground beet and walnut burger topped with kale salad, goat cheese, and crispy onion rings with golden french fries on the side. Tempura vegetables, Szechuan spice-glazed baby back ribs, New York steak and Penang Laksa, a Thai dish in a spicy coconut milk broth, also fill the multicultural menu.

Johnson says that “food has been his number one priority” while getting the restaurant in order. But promising additions to the overall experience at Lilikoi Grill are in the works. One such addition is the New Year’s debut of live Spanish guitar with vocals for the evening menu session.

Johnson is currently looking for veteran servers to assist with wine pairings.