Lots of Swell for Hawaii and Quiksilver Pro France

September 28, 2012, 5:40 PM HST · Updated September 28, 5:42 PM
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By Carlos Rock

Laird Hamilton and Teahupoo. A match made in surfing heaven. Photo:David Tuarau

Hawaii is in for a great weekend of surf.

A south/southwest swell that was turning on the reef passes in Tahiti a few days ago has made its way to the southern shores of Hawaii.

Check out the photo here to the left to get an idea of the swell in Tahiti that Laird Hamilton and a handful of other dare devils tried to paddle into at Teahupoo.

Now imagine all of that energy aimed north to Hawaii combined with light winds, and you have perfect conditions.

This is looking like it’s going to be the best south swell of the summer season, reaching advisory levels. This is the one you don’t want to miss.

Basically every spot is going to light up along Lahaina so take your pick.

But that’s not all. A 10-foot N/NW swell is also going to be hitting the islands and lingering for the rest of next week as it slowly dies out.

Dane Reynolds. Photo: Lucia Griggi/Surfline

Swells on both sides of the island are highly unusual and really only occur during the late summer months as late summer swells and early winter storms work together to make for long hours, days and weeks out in the surf.

While surfers in Hawaii spend these next few days surfing their brains out, the pros are in Europe for the Quiksilver Pro France at La Graviere, Hossegor.

Day one was held today in solid 3 to 5-foot barreling French beach breaks, but as conditions deteriorated, event organizers called competition off for the rest of the day.

The upset of the day was caused by Dane Reynolds (USA) who took out current World #2 Joel Parkinson in their Round 1 heat. Dane Reynolds opts not to compete in the World Tour despite having all of the talent to earn him at least a few world titles.

French Perfection. Photo: wannasurf.com

World #3 Kelly Slater (USA) is fresh off of his win at the previous event at Lower Trestles and is looking to ride his momentum from that win with another win in France and eventually a 12th World Title.

“Got to get it when the getting’s good.” A common saying that can’t be more appropriate for these circumstances of combo swell in the islands. Light winds and predicted seabreezes translate into glassy conditions until 11 a.m. and possibly an afternoon glass off. Keep your eyes peeled as you wander the coast because you might just find another spot to surf.

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