Trades Lighten Up, Big North Swell Expected for Christmas

By Carlos Rock

Christmas presents redefined. Honolua Bay. Photo: Carlos Rock.

The strong trade winds and gnarly east swell are expected to die down for the weekend with Kona winds returning to produce vog and glassy conditions.

A decent 8-15+ ft north swell is on the charts and a 6 ft NW is on tap for the Christmas weekend. And with the Konas on for Monday, there will be more presents to be found and they’re not under the tree.

Only the most dedicated surfers will find a way to sneak a session in on Christmas day while all the others are either sleeping or eating. The hardcores are out hoping for minimal crowds because of the holiday.

Previous Christmases have been blessed with great surf, making some surfers rush through unwrapping gifts and wanting to get out in the water. What better way to spend the holiday?

For now, there have been waves for days. Not the classic winter conditions with steady NW swells pumping one after the other, but a solid east swell has been pounding the islands for a week and a half now.

And with the end of the world expected tomorrow, December 21, 2012, better catch a few before it all ends.

The east swell has been great, safe to say, surfers can surf everyday — just get all of your Christmas shopping done beforehand.

East swell combined with north swells always reminds us surfers why Hawaii is the best place to be in the wintertime for surfing.

Turtles on the beach – a rare sight for sure. More than a dozen of them. Photo: Carlos Rock.

And with sights that are only found at the beach or out in the water, different experiences are good for the psyche. Surfing is a great way to break from the everyday routine because it is always different. Everyday, and every wave, the ocean, and the people are always changing.

Like yesterday at Ho’okipa saw decent surf in the head high range and great direction from the east, and freezing water, but to add to the great waves on hand, a group of 15+ ocean locals, turtles, decided to all come to shore and chill for the night, possibly to breed.

It was just one of the many days out there. You never know what is going to come next, and that is the magic of it all.

Work, sleep, surf, eat, repeat. Life’s basic essentials.