Secret Spots Lighting Up, Wind Tearing Down Others

By Carlos Rock

Inside the Bay. Photo: Carlos Rock

It seems like this winter has seen its share of consecutive days of really good and fairly large surf and the typical average days of wind and chop.

No complaints that we’re still surfing every day.

However, the recent very windy east swell was a very good one for a select few surfers that knew where to go.

The recent trade swell topped out at around 8-foot faces and also brought with it some of the windiest conditions ever seen at some surf spots.

There were, and still are, waves at Ho’okipa but the 35 mph+ tradewinds are literally tearing it to shreds.

The 6-8 foot faces were having their tops blown to bits. It definitely made for an interesting session, not completely satisfying though.

That was until word spread about a certain wave (that shall not be named) that was absolutely going off. This wave, located out in the boonies, requires a few extra miles of driving time, and a 4×4. It was about 3:30 p.m. and a couple hours before sundown, but the call was made to take the chance of scoring this mystical and legendary wave.

We arrived at 5 p.m. to glassy overhead perfection. Spitting barrels, and a more beautiful scenery than you could ever imagine. You pretty much surf right into a valley. There was a crowd, but the waves were so good everyone was hooting each other into waves. Well worth the extra drive. Dream session no doubt.

The swell was just pumping along the point and reeling all the way inside for a point break like any other.

We surfed until dark. Through crazy rain downpours to an amazing sunset, the waves just kept getting bigger to the point where it was in fact A+ surf.

Thought Christmas was over? Not a chance, there were more presents being handed out to those that were there.

There are more swells on the way even though the report may not show anything gigantic at the moment. But after the large New Year’s swells that awoke Jaws yet again, the ocean may need time to rest.

You may even need some time to relax those shoulders from Iron Man-like paddling.

Remember that Christmas Day swell, the one that lit up Honolua Bay like the tree that was in your living room and is now in a trash can somewhere? Well here is footage of Maui boy Dusty Payne getting more than his fair share of Christmas presents from Santa.

Enjoy and try to contain your excitement, or envy: http://www.surfline.com/video/featured-clips/dusty-movement_90596