Swells Fading on All Shores, Advisory Still Up
By Meteorologist Malika Dudley / Email: [email protected]
A High Surf Advisory has been issued by the National Weather Service for east-facing shores of Maui and Molokaʻi through 6 p.m. Thursday. Surf is expected from 8 to 12 foot faces.
Expect strong breaking waves, shore break and strong longshore and rip currents making swimming difficult and dangerous.
The Small Craft Advisory has been extended for all Maui County waters (excluding Maʻalaea Bay) until Thursday at 6 p.m. Winds of up to 25 knots are expected and rough seas up to 12 feet. Inexperienced mariners should avoid navigating in these conditions.
**Click directly on the images below to make them larger. Charts include: Maui County projected winds, forecasted swell direction, height & period, tides, a surface map and expected wave heights.**
North: Mix of northeast and northwest swells for northerly exposures. Surf heights overhead to a couple of feet overhead. Double overhead sets are possible at the best breaks exposed to the northeast swell.
West: Spots open to the swells are expected to get head high to overhead wave heights, maybe even bigger on the sets. Breaks that don’t catch the swell are forecasted to get smaller surf at ankle high or flat.
South: Many areas will remain flat today.
Our current northeast swell is expected to continue to gradually ease today. Our current northwest swell is also slowly fading into the end of the work week.
A new north-northwest swell is expected to build Friday into Saturday, peaking near advisory levels. Surf expected from overhead to well overhead, maybe even bigger at the best exposures. A new north-northwest swell is also expected for the weekend and a series of swells beyond that.
Super small trace amounts of swell expected out of the SPAC. Not much to get excited about.
Keep in mind, surf heights are measured on the face of the wave from trough to crest. Heights vary from beach to beach, and at the same beach, from break to break.