Maui Surf: NW Swell on the Horizon
By Meteorologist Malika Dudley / Email: [email protected]
A High Surf Advisory has been posted by the National Weather Service for north and west-facing shores of Molokaʻi and north shores of Maui through 6 a.m. Monday. Surf is expected from 12 to 18 foot faces for north shores and 8 to 12 foot faces for the west side of Molokaʻi. This advisory is likely to be extended or re-issued today as another large NW swell is expected to build in the afternoon. The advisory will likely have to be upgraded to a warning during the day Monday.
Expect strong breaking waves, shore break and strong longshore and rip currents making swimming difficult and dangerous.
A Small Craft Advisory has been issued by the National Weather Service for the ʻAlenuihāhā & Kaiwi channels along with Maui County windward waters through 6 a.m. Monday for rough seas of 8 to 12 feet. This advisory may need to be extended as another very large NW swell is expected to build late in the day.
**Click directly on the images below to make them larger. Charts include: Maui County projected winds, forecasted swell direction, height & period, tides, a surface map and expected wave heights.**
Maui County Surf Forecast, Monday December 8, 2014
North: North-northwest swell eases through the day. Surf heights well overhead to double overhead in the morning with possible plusses from that swell. New northwest swell builds keeping wave heights up through the day.
West: Spots open to the swell are expected to get chest to shoulder wave heights, early in the day before the swell begins to fade. Breaks that don’t catch the swell are forecasted to get smaller surf at ankle high or flat.
South: Many areas will remain flat today.
Our current north-northwest swell is expected to fade today still offering solid surf expected well overhead + in the morning for best northerly exposures.
A new, very large, north-northwest swell is expected to build through Monday afternoon and peak Tuesday morning. An overlapping swell is forecasted to help increase surf heights on Wednesday at possibly double to triple overhead or more at the best exposures. This swell will bring us waves for exposed shores through the work week. The situation is still developing.
A series of swells are expected over the weekend and into next week as well.
Super small trace amounts of swell expected out of the SPAC. Not much to get excited about.
Keep in mind, surf heights are measured on the face of the wave from trough to crest. Heights vary from beach to beach, and at the same beach, from break to break.