Large Swell to Produce 18-24 Foot Surf along North Shore of Maui

(Updated 3:30 a.m. Tues., 1/4/11)

The National Weather Service has issued a High Surf WARNING for the North and West facing shores of Kauai and Niihau, and the West facing shores of the Big Island.

Surf is expected to increase to 20-25 feet along the north and west shores of Kauai and Niihau. Big Island surf will rise to 8-14 feet at its peak. Inexperienced swimmers should avoid entering the water because of strong rip currents and battering waves.

There’s also a High Surf ADVISORY in effect for the North and West facing shores of Oahu, and the North facing shores of Maui and Molokai. On Maui, surf along the north shores will rise to 18-24 feet, while surf along the west shores will build to 10-18 feet. The Maui surf is expected to produce strong rip currents and localized beach erosion.

Forecasters say a large west-northwest swell will build today, eventually peaking late tonight and Wednesday. The swell was generated over the weekend by a large low pressure system west of the international dateline.

The Warning for Kauai and Niihau goes into effect at noon today and remains in effect until 6 p.m. on Wednesday, January 5, 2011. The Warning for the Big Island and the Advisory for Maui and Molokai goes into effect at 6 o’clock tonight and remains in effect through 6 p.m. on Thursday, January 6, 2011.

(Posted by Wendy Osher; supporting information courtesy National Weather Service)

File image.