By Kristin Hashimoto

Serpico's Owner Hatch Clarke, image by Kristin Hashimoto

If you know who Serpico is, then you can understand the parallel this pizzeria has to the man himself. This comfy pizza place in Pukalani serves up food that has truth and integrity in every bite. The bread is made in-house, the crust is crisp and crunchy on the outside and chewy and moist on the inside.

In 2006, Hatch Clarke, owner and proprietor moved restaurant and family from New Jersey to Maui. Hint: take a look at some of the pictures on the walls and you may get a glimpse into his past. Or, just ask him yourself. He walks the floor, works the kitchen, talks to staff and patrons easily.

The traffic here is constant. Just kick back and watch. The inner workings of the kitchen are well orchestrated. Watching their cook plate pasta from the pan is a pleasure.  With deft movements that seem effortless, the cook created that perfect swirled mound of spaghetti, and carefully wiped the rim of the dish removing any errant spots of sauce. The server is affable, refills waters, iced teas, removes plates with efficiency, and elicits smiles with each savory dish brought to the table.

The pies aren’t super thin New York style, nor are they the pan-deep type. They are just right to hold the massive toppings on the pizzas. Chunks of chicken, artichoke hearts, sausages and more lay atop stringy mozzarella cheese and sauce.

Salads and pizzas go so well together. The fresh crisp bite of lettuce, that burst of flavor from juicy grape tomatoes, and the sweet crunch from some slivered onions complements a cheesy or meaty, almost rustic slice of pie.

The fresh mozzarella salad is loaded with cheese. Their house-made raspberry dressing pairs perfectly with the piquant fresh mozzarella. This salad costs $9.95. Appetizers and salads can cost approximately $3 to $13 each, and pizzas range in price with large sizes costing around $17 to $24, more or less, depending on the type of pizza and the toppings added. A medium cheese pizza is $14.75. The more premium toppings cost around $3 to $6 each. Eggplant on a medium pizza would be $3.50 and goat cheese on a large pizza would be $6.

Serpico's Pizza, image by Kristin Hashimoto

Entrees range from approximately $12 to $19, and include ravioli, baked ziti, chicken, shrimp, veal or eggplant parmigiana with spaghetti. Hoagies and sandwiches are also available. The philly cheesesteak looked like a popular choice, as more than a few people were noshing on this particular sandwich. There’s also a keiki menu that is very reasonably priced for around $5. If you like a particular brew or wine with dinner, Serpico’s allows patrons to bring their own beverage.

Desserts are also available with choices from a brownie sundae and a strawberry chocolate cannoli. Serpico’s delivers seven days a week from 5:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m. and are open daily from 11:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. Serpico’s is located at 7 Aewa Place in Pukalani. Call 808-572-8498, or visit www.serpicosmaui.com.