By Kristin Hashimoto

Dry-aged rib-eye steak, photo by Kristin Hashimoto

When a waiter or waitress asks what temperature you’d like your dish cooked, you immediately understand that something is up. Attention to detail by amazing degree is what Duo has to offer.

This steak and seafood restaurant in Wailea has some good food. Here steaks are sophisticated while maintaining its necessary earthiness. You expect a steak right? At Duo you will get a hearty, seared and crusted, well-seasoned steak with accompanying “ohmygosh” mouth moment. The dry-aged, bone-in, rib-eye steak is an experience. The seafood is good, but again, it all depends on what you’re expecting. This restaurant has the spectrum of land to sea.  If you want to go light, go for the fish. Or, try the elk and venison options if you’d prefer more game with your fingerling potatoes. Entrees are in the $30 to $50 range.

If the sea is calling, the seafood tower is less “tower” and more piecemeal with a bit of lobster, an oyster, a shrimp and some poke in a cocktail type martini glass seated in crushed ice. The poke is akin to a spicy kim-chee base-type flavor, without the aggressive vinegar bite. The fish also has a creaminess that cuts the spice and makes the chunks of fresh ahi almost addicting.

Seafood tower, photo by Kristin Hashimoto

Try not to fill up on the bread and butter brought to the table, as dessert should not be missed. The mango crème brulee is infused with summer mango flavor. The top is what you’d expect of brulee as slight tapping is required to break the caramelized candy-sugar surface. The mousse-like pudding “donuts” with Guinness ice cream is any stout lover’s dream, and their strawberry crumble is made with house-made strawberry soda. Chocoholics beware. While many love the chocolate soufflé at Roy’s restaurant, Duo offers a chocolate soufflé with raspberry sauce and ice cream that is light, airy, decadent and deeply satisfying.

Imagine a very plush couch. Roy’s soufflé is like jumping then sinking into the softness until you hit the couch’s frame. Duo’s soufflé is like laying atop an air mattress that slowly deflates. The light and airy texture settles into your stomach softly, whereas Roy’s has a defining kind of “it’s there,” sitting in your stomach kind of moment. Depending on your preferences, soufflé at Duo’s can be perfect, or too light. The end of the night, and revelation with the check is made soft and sweet with a complimentary puff of sugar, spun fine and flavored. The cotton candy arrives with moist towels and large smiles.

Duo is located at the Four Seasons Resort, and is in very good company as it is right below Wolfgang Puck’s Spago. Go valet; it’s better than walking and finding your way back to your car after ingesting the decadence that is Duo. It’s also easier on a woman’s high heels. She’ll thank you for the thoughtfulness later.

For reservations call 808-874-8000, or visit www.fourseasons.com/maui/dining/duo/, and make a reservation utilizing OpenTable. Dress is resort casual, but expect to see some in more formal or stylized attire. They’re open nightly for dinner from 5:30 p.m. to 9:30 p.m.