Swell Peaks at Warning Levels Today
By Meteorologist Malika Dudley / Email: [email protected]
A High Surf Warning is posted through 6 p.m. Friday. Surf heights of 22 to 26 feet are expected for the north shores of Maui and Moloka’i. The west side of Moloka’i could see wave heights from 16 to 20 feet. Expect ocean water occasionally sweeping across portions of beaches, very strong breaking waves and strong longshore and rip currents. Breaking waves may occasionally impact harbors making navigating the harbor channel difficult. Large breaking surf, significant shore break and dangerous currents will make entering the water very hazardous. Boaters should be aware of an increased number of surfers in the water.
A Small Craft Advisory is posted for all island waters through 6 p.m. Saturday. North winds of 20 to 25 knots with gusts up to 35 knots are expected along with rough seas of 10 to 15 feet. Inexperienced mariners should avoid navigating in these conditions.
**Click directly on the images below to make them larger. Charts include: Maui County projected winds, forecasted swell direction, height & period, tides, a surface map and expected wave heights.**
North: Many breaks will be closing out today. Triple overhead waves with larger sets up to 4x overhead at the best breaks on the sets.
West: Pretty flat conditions are expected today. Exposures catching the swell could see chest to head high waves, maybe bigger on the sets.
South: Knee to waist high waves are expected today. The best breaks could be bigger on the sets. Otherwise, shores that don’t catch the swells will be about ankle high.
Our current north swell is expected to continue to slowly fade.
A strong storm over the Aleutians is expected to bring a solid north-northwest swell building through the morning Friday peaking in the afternoon. Triple overhead waves are expected with this swell maybe even breaking at our big wave deep water spots.
A northwest pulse is expected late this weekend. A storm near Japan is expected to bring us a west-northwest swell early next week. Will keep an eye on these.
A slightly bigger swell is expected to continue to build Friday morning and peak late in the day. This swell was generated by a storm in the Tasman Sea.
Keep in mind, surf heights are measured on the face of the wave from trough to crest. Heights vary from beach to beach, and at the same beach, from break to break.